This was a day to relax. We had seen the major sights in Stockholm when we were here a couple of weeks ago, so we decided to pick one or two of the other sights to look at today. We left the hotel at about 9:30 and strolled to Gamla Stan - the Old Town - to find a book store that Ann had spotted on our last visit. Being Sunday and being in a conservative Scandinavian country, the store was closed. So we walked to the main city to the Music Museum. This is a small museum that has displays of musical instruments from the middle ages to today. Many of the displays had the instruments set out so that you could play them. Some of the display had two instruments side-by-side - one ancient and one old - so that you could push a button for each and compare their sounds to see how similar they are. There were other displays behind glass of musical combos from early times up to ABBA. When you stand in front of them, a sample of their music plays. We spent a couple of hours in the museum.
On our walk back to the hotel, we stopped at a cafe where I had an excellent lasagna and salad for lunch. Ann's stomach was giving her problems, so she just had tea.
Back at the hotel, Ann took a nap while I wasted time on the Internet. We have a free wireless connection here. Then we strolled down one of the main streets to find a grocery store and to scout out a place to have dinner.
Dinner was at a small Indian restaurant and it was surprisingly good. Ann had mild chicken curry (she was still nursing a troubled stomach) while I had Tandoori Chicken Sizlar. The meal included nan and jasmine rice.
Sunday, August 19, 2007
Bergen to Stockholm - August 18
We caught a taxi at 9:30 this morning for the airport. We got there way early for our 12:00 flight. Our airline was FlyNordic - a discount airline for Scandinavia. I was worried about our luggage being too heavy, but Ann's Big Bertha suitcase was 4 kgs under the limit. It still got a "Heavy" sticker put on it. We saw Jim and Linda from our tour group waiting for their flight. Other than that, we sat around for quite awhile until our flight was called.
FlyNordic is a lot like Southwest Airlines. There is open seating and all food and drink on board costs real money. We had finka - coffee and a chocolate muffin. The flight was uneventful. We left in rainy skies and landed in sunny weather.
Because we had been to the Stockholm airport before, we were veterans in taking the Arlanda Express train into Stockholm. This time Ann remembered to take her purse with her.
Our hotel, The Columbus Hotell is in another section of Stockholm than our first hotel a couple of weeks ago. It is centrally situated in one of the most popular areas of Stockholm, called Södermalm. This is a younger area with lots of cafes, restaurants and shops. The hotel is located on a very quiet street in back of the Katarina Church. In fact, it abuts the church's grave yard. Ann really likes our room, especially the bathroom. It has a footed tub.
FlyNordic is a lot like Southwest Airlines. There is open seating and all food and drink on board costs real money. We had finka - coffee and a chocolate muffin. The flight was uneventful. We left in rainy skies and landed in sunny weather.
Because we had been to the Stockholm airport before, we were veterans in taking the Arlanda Express train into Stockholm. This time Ann remembered to take her purse with her.
Our hotel, The Columbus Hotell is in another section of Stockholm than our first hotel a couple of weeks ago. It is centrally situated in one of the most popular areas of Stockholm, called Södermalm. This is a younger area with lots of cafes, restaurants and shops. The hotel is located on a very quiet street in back of the Katarina Church. In fact, it abuts the church's grave yard. Ann really likes our room, especially the bathroom. It has a footed tub.
The Footed Tub
Dinner was at Greken På Hörnet, an excellent Greek restaurant near the hotel. Ann had a melt-in-your-mouth moussaka - nötfärs, aubergine, potatis och bechamelsås - while I had xifias - grillad svärdfiskfile med sauterade grönsaker och mustig vitvinsås. This is a restaurant to come back to.
Saturday, August 18, 2007
Bergen - August 17
Rain, rain, rain.....
It was raining when we woke up. It was raining when we had breakfast. It was raining when Lisa took us for an early orientation walk. Some of us bailed early. Ann stopped and took shelter at the Bryggens Museum. I went back to the hotel and put my fleece jacket under my rain jacket. I then wandered over to the Fish Market to see what was there and to take some pictures.
One of the Fish Vendor's Display
I then went back to the museum to meet our guided tour of the old town. Our guide was dressed in a period costume. His delivery was very professional and well informed. He took us through part of the Bryggens Museum and talked about the archaeological excavations of Bryggen between 1955 and 1972. (See the web site above). He then took us some of the narrow alleys of Bryggen, the old Hanseatic League town established almost 900 years ago. Finally, he took us to the Hanseatic Museum which is one of the old trade houses at Bryggen. The museum has old interiors from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Bryggen
When the tour was over, we grabbed some lunch and then walked over to another part of town to see the Bergen Aquarium which at 150 Kr a head was too expensive, so Ann went for a swim in the outdoor pool. At this part of the day, it was about 55 degrees, raining and blowing. The last two women in the dressing room explained the ropes and pointed out the 10 Kr for a warm after swim shower was the swimmer's reward. The salt water pool was barely warmer than the air, but in the rain, with the sea just yards beyond the deck and the exhilaration of having the entire pool to herself, it was a magic moment of the trip, especially after the shower! Of course, I was holding her towel waiting for her to finish while I was standing in the rain and wind as the waves were slamming against the pools wooden deck and blasting streams of surf into the air.
Ann in the Pool
The walk back to the hotel was nice. The rain had let up a little and I could take pictures of another part of Bergen.
Our tour's farewell dinner was at Steakers. I had reindeer steak while Ann had a vegetarian dish. We all gathered around after dinner and related our WOW moments of the tour. Some where light and some were emotional. All-in-all, it was a good evening.
It was raining when we woke up. It was raining when we had breakfast. It was raining when Lisa took us for an early orientation walk. Some of us bailed early. Ann stopped and took shelter at the Bryggens Museum. I went back to the hotel and put my fleece jacket under my rain jacket. I then wandered over to the Fish Market to see what was there and to take some pictures.
One of the Fish Vendor's Display
I then went back to the museum to meet our guided tour of the old town. Our guide was dressed in a period costume. His delivery was very professional and well informed. He took us through part of the Bryggens Museum and talked about the archaeological excavations of Bryggen between 1955 and 1972. (See the web site above). He then took us some of the narrow alleys of Bryggen, the old Hanseatic League town established almost 900 years ago. Finally, he took us to the Hanseatic Museum which is one of the old trade houses at Bryggen. The museum has old interiors from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Bryggen
When the tour was over, we grabbed some lunch and then walked over to another part of town to see the Bergen Aquarium which at 150 Kr a head was too expensive, so Ann went for a swim in the outdoor pool. At this part of the day, it was about 55 degrees, raining and blowing. The last two women in the dressing room explained the ropes and pointed out the 10 Kr for a warm after swim shower was the swimmer's reward. The salt water pool was barely warmer than the air, but in the rain, with the sea just yards beyond the deck and the exhilaration of having the entire pool to herself, it was a magic moment of the trip, especially after the shower! Of course, I was holding her towel waiting for her to finish while I was standing in the rain and wind as the waves were slamming against the pools wooden deck and blasting streams of surf into the air.
Ann in the Pool
The walk back to the hotel was nice. The rain had let up a little and I could take pictures of another part of Bergen.
Our tour's farewell dinner was at Steakers. I had reindeer steak while Ann had a vegetarian dish. We all gathered around after dinner and related our WOW moments of the tour. Some where light and some were emotional. All-in-all, it was a good evening.
Friday, August 17, 2007
Elvesæter to Bergen - August 16
Glorious sun rose over this quaint “luxury” retreat in the Norwegian mountains. We ate a bountiful breakfast including hot oatmeal for the first time in Scandinavia. I haven’t mentioned it before, but the Norwegian bread is outstanding. We have a choice of several kinds at breakfast.
We boarded the bus for a six-hour drive broken by numerous photo stops featuring craggy mountains, glacial ice fields and rushing rivers on the Sognefjord road through the mountains. At a stop in Luster, we felt the water. It was very cold coming from the glaciers and mountain lakes.
Us at Glacial Ice Fields
We caught our ferry at Kaupanger. We had our picnic lunches with us, so Lisa gave us instructions on how to grab the best tables on deck. We positioned ourselves first in line and when the ferryman gave us the OK to board, we rushed to the tables and beat out all of the other tourists, even the Germans. This paid off for the first ½ hour of the trip while we ate our lunch. Then it began to sprinkle and shower, so most people took shelter and the deck was almost vacant. For the next two hours, I roamed the deck to find the best spots to take pictures. The views were spectacular - towering cliffs, blue water and tumbling waterfalls.
We boarded the bus for a six-hour drive broken by numerous photo stops featuring craggy mountains, glacial ice fields and rushing rivers on the Sognefjord road through the mountains. At a stop in Luster, we felt the water. It was very cold coming from the glaciers and mountain lakes.
Us at Glacial Ice Fields
We caught our ferry at Kaupanger. We had our picnic lunches with us, so Lisa gave us instructions on how to grab the best tables on deck. We positioned ourselves first in line and when the ferryman gave us the OK to board, we rushed to the tables and beat out all of the other tourists, even the Germans. This paid off for the first ½ hour of the trip while we ate our lunch. Then it began to sprinkle and shower, so most people took shelter and the deck was almost vacant. For the next two hours, I roamed the deck to find the best spots to take pictures. The views were spectacular - towering cliffs, blue water and tumbling waterfalls.
Fjord Scenes
The ferry landed at Gudvangen where we piled back onto the bus to have Mathieu thrill us with his skilled driving up a narrow, steep hill with numerous switchbacks up to another spectacular view of the valley and mountains that we had just passed by bus and ferry.
We arrived in Bergen to pouring rain and checked into the Hotel Rosenkrantz. Because of the rain, our short walking tour of our neighborhood was postponed until the next day. Instead, most of us went to Pepe’s for pizza and beer. Darlene and Caroline hosted an “after party” where we enjoyed retelling past travel stories and revealing future plans.
We arrived in Bergen to pouring rain and checked into the Hotel Rosenkrantz. Because of the rain, our short walking tour of our neighborhood was postponed until the next day. Instead, most of us went to Pepe’s for pizza and beer. Darlene and Caroline hosted an “after party” where we enjoyed retelling past travel stories and revealing future plans.
Oslo to Elvesæter - August 15
Today was a long bus day broken up by a visit to Lillehammer and the Nordic Folk Museum. This is an indoor/outdoor museum with beautiful old buildings brought here to form a huge farm complex with five tenant farms. We saw the main family house which was rustic but well appointed with carving. The owner was a rich farmer, circa 1750. It was raining off-and-on as we toured the buildings.
The Maihaugen Museum interior featured craft and hobby displays including a dentist’s office circa 1890’s. The dentists was the museum’s founder who practiced here.
Later in Lom, we visited one of the remaining stave churches from the 12th century. It was a beautiful wood construction and decoration.
Stave Church in Lom
Our final destination was the Elvesæter Inn for a quiet overnight. There were wood buildings with painted and carved details from the 16th century. The inn started out as a farm, but was converted to an inn in the 1800’s. We stayed in the building of the giants. We were now in the mountains of Norway, so the weather was cool as were the rooms. We could have used the room’s heater, but we couldn’t figure out how to turn it on.
Dinner was in the main house on the second floor. The views from it were spectacular - a ranging river beneath steep, wooded hills. We had a three-course dinner - potato and leek soup, prime rib with potatoes and green vegetables, and crème caramel.
The weather was still drizzly after dinner. This didn’t discourage Ann as she made a tour around the grounds. The river looked like it was near flood stage, but the locals said it wouldn’t happen.
The Maihaugen Museum interior featured craft and hobby displays including a dentist’s office circa 1890’s. The dentists was the museum’s founder who practiced here.
Later in Lom, we visited one of the remaining stave churches from the 12th century. It was a beautiful wood construction and decoration.
Stave Church in Lom
Our final destination was the Elvesæter Inn for a quiet overnight. There were wood buildings with painted and carved details from the 16th century. The inn started out as a farm, but was converted to an inn in the 1800’s. We stayed in the building of the giants. We were now in the mountains of Norway, so the weather was cool as were the rooms. We could have used the room’s heater, but we couldn’t figure out how to turn it on.
Dinner was in the main house on the second floor. The views from it were spectacular - a ranging river beneath steep, wooded hills. We had a three-course dinner - potato and leek soup, prime rib with potatoes and green vegetables, and crème caramel.
The weather was still drizzly after dinner. This didn’t discourage Ann as she made a tour around the grounds. The river looked like it was near flood stage, but the locals said it wouldn’t happen.
Thursday, August 16, 2007
Oslo - August 14
This morning was a boat morning. First, we took a ferry to o see the Oslo Viking Museum. Then we strolled through a delightful residential neighborhood to three other maritime museums. The Kon Tiki Museum contained both the Kon Tiki and Ra II rafts that Thor Heyerdahl used in his expeditions to prove that ancient civilizations could float with the ocean current to inhabit Polynesia and Barbados. In the Norwegian Maritime Museum, we saw a film that took us on a helicopter ride along the coast of Norway. The movie was on a 180 degree screen and made you feel like you were in the helicopter. The From Museum contained a ship that had gone to both poles with famous Norwegian explorers.
Kon Tiki
For lunch, we had Norway’s version of a hot dog - a sausage wrapped in a potato pancake. Ugh!
We hopped on the ferry back to the city center, got onto the subway and rode out to the Munch Museum. There was lots of security at the entrance most likely because someone had stolen “The Scream” a few months back. The museum displays works by Munch during different periods of his artistic life. There were some really powerful paintings.
We took the subway back to the city center and breezed through the National Gallery where we saw paintings and sculptures by many Norwegian artists.
We got back to the hotel was early enough for Ann to put her bathing suit under her clothes and take the subway to Vigeland Park to swim in its Olympic size pool. There were too many people using the lap lanes so she swam in another part of the pool where the kids were jumping in and splashing. She said the pool was big enough so that it didn’t bother her.
Dinner tonight was in Kaffistova Where Ann had salmon with potatoes and cabbage. I had meatballs with gravy, potatoes and mushy beans. It was very bland food but it was filling. The cost was around $50 - not bad if we were eating at a decent restaurant in Berkeley like Rick and Ann‘s with wine and desert. We haven’t been going to better restaurants because of the cost. We were told that Oslo is the most expensive city in the world - the land of $10 beers and $15 Big Macs!
We picked up some chocolate on the way back to the hotel and shared it and conversation with some of our group who were using the breakfast room for their take-out dinner.
The weather today was mixed. It was sunny with light clouds in the morning. In the direct sun, it was pretty warm. We got caught in a shower in the afternoon while we were leaving the National Gallery. We took shelter in Bit where I had a snack of a good raisin bun with cardamom.
Kon Tiki
For lunch, we had Norway’s version of a hot dog - a sausage wrapped in a potato pancake. Ugh!
We hopped on the ferry back to the city center, got onto the subway and rode out to the Munch Museum. There was lots of security at the entrance most likely because someone had stolen “The Scream” a few months back. The museum displays works by Munch during different periods of his artistic life. There were some really powerful paintings.
We took the subway back to the city center and breezed through the National Gallery where we saw paintings and sculptures by many Norwegian artists.
We got back to the hotel was early enough for Ann to put her bathing suit under her clothes and take the subway to Vigeland Park to swim in its Olympic size pool. There were too many people using the lap lanes so she swam in another part of the pool where the kids were jumping in and splashing. She said the pool was big enough so that it didn’t bother her.
Dinner tonight was in Kaffistova Where Ann had salmon with potatoes and cabbage. I had meatballs with gravy, potatoes and mushy beans. It was very bland food but it was filling. The cost was around $50 - not bad if we were eating at a decent restaurant in Berkeley like Rick and Ann‘s with wine and desert. We haven’t been going to better restaurants because of the cost. We were told that Oslo is the most expensive city in the world - the land of $10 beers and $15 Big Macs!
We picked up some chocolate on the way back to the hotel and shared it and conversation with some of our group who were using the breakfast room for their take-out dinner.
The weather today was mixed. It was sunny with light clouds in the morning. In the direct sun, it was pretty warm. We got caught in a shower in the afternoon while we were leaving the National Gallery. We took shelter in Bit where I had a snack of a good raisin bun with cardamom.
Oslo - August 13
We had a breakfast buffet on board in the same restaurant as last night’s dinner. I got the last slice of melon, snatching it out from under the hand of 15 Japanese women who were dominating the fruit bar. We had lots of cereals, breads and hot food. The pressed coffee was strong and plentiful.
After breakfast, we went onto the upper deck and watched the scenery as we sailed up the Fjord of Oslo into Oslo. The fjord reminded a lot of us of Puget Sound with its rocky beaches, small islands and small hills riding from the shore. The real fjords come in a few days.
We docked at 9:30, got off of the ship and dumped our luggage on the bus. We drove a few blocks into the center of Oslo and then took a walking tour over Karl Johann Gate. Lisa pointed out many ATM’s, City Hall, the Parliament Building, the National Theater, the Royal Palace and many other important sites. We ended the walk at the Resistance Museum where we saw how the Norwegians coped with the Nazi occupation during WWII.
Lunch on our own found us at Deli de Luca for a good relatively inexpensive sandwich and salad. We ate on a bench on the adjacent parkway.
After finding an ATM, we bought ice cream, checked in at the hotel and hopped back on the bus for visits to the wonderful Vigeland Sculpture Park and the Holmenkollen ski jump museum. We went to the top of the ski jump and looked down on the jump and its landing area. Very scary! We also rode in a simulator that took us over the jump and down the downhill course at Cortina.
We ate take-out dinner from Deli de Luca in the hotel’s breakfast room with most of the rest of our group.
One of the Sculptures and the Ski Jump
Ærø to Oslo - August 12
We awoke to skies that were starting to clear. Yesterday was cloudy and cool with some minor sprinkles. Today promised to be better. Too bad we were leaving Ærø.
We got to the bakery by opening time (7:00) to buy some Danish to take on our bus ride for mid-morning snacks. This time we got cinnamon, berry and something that looked like a bear claw. Then it was back to the B&B for a duplicate of yesterday’s breakfast. It was still good. We packed up our bags and met the bus at the ferry landing at 8:40. The ferry left at 9:00 with all of us aboard. There was no Irish band today, only tourists and some locals that had business off of Ærø.
The ferry ride was over in a little over an hour. We hopped on the bus again and took off for Copenhagen. We had one stop for gas and nature calls. We ate our yummy Danish washed down with coffee.
When we got to Copenhagen, we went directly to the National Museum. Because it was lunch time, we went directly to the cafeteria and ordered two Danish sandwiches. They were huge. Lots of veggies, meats and cheese on fucaccio bread. We could have gotten by with only one sandwich but it was too late to change our order.
We than toured the museum at our own paces. There were exhibits of Danish civilization starting with the Bronze Age up to current times. The displays of lur horns and horned helmets were not being shown, but we did see rune stones, some Iron Age relics, religious artifacts, material on the Reformation, a cylinder perspective of a noble family, a peep show and reproductions of apartments in modern times.
We got back to the bus and made a quick visit to the Little Mermaid. Then it was off to the ferry terminal to catch a boat to Oslo. Everyone in our group had an inside cabin. It was pretty small with two single beds and a combination bathroom. After dropping off our bags, we made a tour of the ship. There are several restaurants and bars along with a duty-free shop. We sat in the bow on the top deck for our departure. As soon as we left port, the price of beer dropped, so we bought some and watch the first few miles of our journey. It was pretty cold out there, so most of the passengers went inside.
The Little Mermaid
Our buffet dinner started at 8:30 - way too late for us. It was good, though. There were three different kinds of herring, dozens of salads, lots of shellfish and other fish, meatballs, pasta, mystery meats, fresh fruit and several deserts. We had to walk the decks afterwards to let our food settle.
We got to the bakery by opening time (7:00) to buy some Danish to take on our bus ride for mid-morning snacks. This time we got cinnamon, berry and something that looked like a bear claw. Then it was back to the B&B for a duplicate of yesterday’s breakfast. It was still good. We packed up our bags and met the bus at the ferry landing at 8:40. The ferry left at 9:00 with all of us aboard. There was no Irish band today, only tourists and some locals that had business off of Ærø.
The ferry ride was over in a little over an hour. We hopped on the bus again and took off for Copenhagen. We had one stop for gas and nature calls. We ate our yummy Danish washed down with coffee.
When we got to Copenhagen, we went directly to the National Museum. Because it was lunch time, we went directly to the cafeteria and ordered two Danish sandwiches. They were huge. Lots of veggies, meats and cheese on fucaccio bread. We could have gotten by with only one sandwich but it was too late to change our order.
We than toured the museum at our own paces. There were exhibits of Danish civilization starting with the Bronze Age up to current times. The displays of lur horns and horned helmets were not being shown, but we did see rune stones, some Iron Age relics, religious artifacts, material on the Reformation, a cylinder perspective of a noble family, a peep show and reproductions of apartments in modern times.
We got back to the bus and made a quick visit to the Little Mermaid. Then it was off to the ferry terminal to catch a boat to Oslo. Everyone in our group had an inside cabin. It was pretty small with two single beds and a combination bathroom. After dropping off our bags, we made a tour of the ship. There are several restaurants and bars along with a duty-free shop. We sat in the bow on the top deck for our departure. As soon as we left port, the price of beer dropped, so we bought some and watch the first few miles of our journey. It was pretty cold out there, so most of the passengers went inside.
The Little Mermaid
Our buffet dinner started at 8:30 - way too late for us. It was good, though. There were three different kinds of herring, dozens of salads, lots of shellfish and other fish, meatballs, pasta, mystery meats, fresh fruit and several deserts. We had to walk the decks afterwards to let our food settle.
Saturday, August 11, 2007
Ærø - August 11
We had no trouble last night navigating to our detached bathroom and slept peacefully in the cozy Copenhagen room. We had to get change for the laundromat, so we walked to the nearest bakery and bought a Danish pastry. Wow! It was the best I have ever had. When we got back, Karin and Jon our hosts at the Toldbodhus B & B served us each a delightful coddled egg with fresh-squeezed orange juice, pressed coffee, fresh rolls, meat, cheese, yogurt and homemade plum jam.
With the help of our friends, we negotiated the pitfalls of the laundromat this morning before we boarded the bus at 11:45 to drive to the inn serving traditional Danish open-faced sandwiches. Lisa treated us to a shot of Aquavit - not bad.
After lunch, we took a tour of the island featuring classic thatched roof cottages, 12th century Bregninge church with restored gothic paintings and a neolithic "passing grave" site. We got a chance to walk by the historic beach cottages before returning to Ærøskobing. We accepted Suzanna's invitation to tea at Pension Vestergade which housed some of our group. She baked Danish pastries and cookies for us besides fielding questions about Denmark, Ærø and her life.
With the help of our friends, we negotiated the pitfalls of the laundromat this morning before we boarded the bus at 11:45 to drive to the inn serving traditional Danish open-faced sandwiches. Lisa treated us to a shot of Aquavit - not bad.
Sandwiches
After lunch, we took a tour of the island featuring classic thatched roof cottages, 12th century Bregninge church with restored gothic paintings and a neolithic "passing grave" site. We got a chance to walk by the historic beach cottages before returning to Ærøskobing. We accepted Suzanna's invitation to tea at Pension Vestergade which housed some of our group. She baked Danish pastries and cookies for us besides fielding questions about Denmark, Ærø and her life.
We had remarkably delicious fresh salads at Cafe Aroma. Michelle and Carol from Sacramento joined us.
Desert from the waffle cone ice cream shop lived up to its reputation. I had licorice and Ann had the special - walnut-maple ice cream with whipped cream topped with maple syrup. Yum
Copenhagen to Ærø - August 10
We were on the bus by 9:00 and set out for Roskilde to visit the Viking Museum. By 10:00 we were watching a film describing the Viking culture that centered around boating and building ships for commerce, fishing, protection and voyaging. With the discovery of sunken vessels in the fjord, contemporary Danes painstakingly reconstructed the history of their Viking forbearers at this fascinating museum. Remains of the boats and life-sized models of how they originally looked were some of the featured exhibits. Ann found amber earrings as souvenirs.
Also in Roskilde we visited the ornate Lutheran cathedral before having lunch on the “mall”. Both were worthwhile, but were outshined by the museum.
Our bus ride to catch the ferry to Ærø was nap time for many of us. After we boarded the ferry and had an initial thrill of experiencing sea air top side, Lisa came and informed us of an Irish band playing inside. For the rest of the ride we enjoyed the lively music of an excellent 6-man band.
Quaint Aero was all it was built up to be. We had the garden cottage named Copenhagen at a B & B -Tolbodhus - with a detached bathroom. We had to walk across the garden courtyard to get to it. At least we weren’t sharing a bathroom like the other three couples with us.
Our Cottage
Dinner of roast pork, red cabbage and potatoes was followed by an unpronounceable pudding made out of pureed fruit with berries on top covered by cream. It was sumptuous.
After dinner we followed the night watchman/lamp lighter/story teller for a walk around the village. Because we were tired, we bailed out after three stops.
Also in Roskilde we visited the ornate Lutheran cathedral before having lunch on the “mall”. Both were worthwhile, but were outshined by the museum.
Our bus ride to catch the ferry to Ærø was nap time for many of us. After we boarded the ferry and had an initial thrill of experiencing sea air top side, Lisa came and informed us of an Irish band playing inside. For the rest of the ride we enjoyed the lively music of an excellent 6-man band.
Quaint Aero was all it was built up to be. We had the garden cottage named Copenhagen at a B & B -Tolbodhus - with a detached bathroom. We had to walk across the garden courtyard to get to it. At least we weren’t sharing a bathroom like the other three couples with us.
Our Cottage
Dinner of roast pork, red cabbage and potatoes was followed by an unpronounceable pudding made out of pureed fruit with berries on top covered by cream. It was sumptuous.
After dinner we followed the night watchman/lamp lighter/story teller for a walk around the village. Because we were tired, we bailed out after three stops.
Thursday, August 9, 2007
Copenhagen - August 9
Lisa took us on a more in-depth walking tour this morning. She led us through Orsteds Park and then along some of the more scenic streets as she pointed out the more important historic buildings and gave some historic facts about Copenhagen. The two-hour tour ended near the Stork Fountain. The group split up at that point so Ann and I decided that it was time to try some Danish pastry. We went to a bakery and bought a chocolate Danish and a raisin scone. We took them to an outdoor kiosk where we sat down with coffee and a ginger drink and enjoyed our treats.
We then found the stop for the number 66 bus and rode it to Christiana, the old hippy or free-lifestyle section of Copenhagen. This area was pretty drug-intensive for many years, but the dealing has stopped. The aptly named "Pusher Street" is the main street in the area with lots of food vendors and little shops lining it. It has become a tourist attraction. I wanted to eat lunch there in a vegetarian restaurant but the smell of dog poop turned off Ann. We left after saying hello to some others in our tour group who were enjoying their morning beer.
We took the bus back to where we started and used the GPS to find Riz Raz. We had its plentiful vegetarian buffet and sweet ice tea. There was lots of good food and the tea was very refreshing.
After lunch we walked back to the hotel. When we checked in for our non-smoking room, the only one left was a suite. So now we feel guilty about complaining about our smelly room the night before and getting a room that is much better than everyone else.
Orsteds Park
We then found the stop for the number 66 bus and rode it to Christiana, the old hippy or free-lifestyle section of Copenhagen. This area was pretty drug-intensive for many years, but the dealing has stopped. The aptly named "Pusher Street" is the main street in the area with lots of food vendors and little shops lining it. It has become a tourist attraction. I wanted to eat lunch there in a vegetarian restaurant but the smell of dog poop turned off Ann. We left after saying hello to some others in our tour group who were enjoying their morning beer.
Christiana
We took the bus back to where we started and used the GPS to find Riz Raz. We had its plentiful vegetarian buffet and sweet ice tea. There was lots of good food and the tea was very refreshing.
After lunch we walked back to the hotel. When we checked in for our non-smoking room, the only one left was a suite. So now we feel guilty about complaining about our smelly room the night before and getting a room that is much better than everyone else.
At 4:45 left left the hotel and forced-marched ourselves through the pedestrian walkway down to the docks and met a bunch of our group at 5:30 for a Jazz Cruise. We boarded a flat boat with open-air seating. The jazz combo was in front. It was a quartet of older men - a bass, a trumpet, a banjo/singer and a bass sax/alto sax. The played old-time jazz classics - sort of Dixieland. The passengers really got into it especially after drinking their wine and beer. People along the banks of the canals liked it, too. They were waving at us and dancing to the beat. A fun time.
The Jazz Combo
Since we had the big room at the hotel, we invited people to our place for a Happy Hour before bedtime.
Wednesday, August 8, 2007
Kalmar to Copenhagen - August 8
We had a strong storm move through this morning. There was lots of thunder and very close flashes of lightening. The sky was still dripping as we walked over to the Kalmar Castle. This castle was very strategic for defense purposes from the 12th century until the Union of Kalmar broke up several centuries later. Our guide, Oskar, dressed in period costume, was very knowledgeable and enjoyed getting lots of questions from our group.
View of Kalmar Castle and Oskar, the Guide
After the castle, we got onto the bus and began our day's journey to Copenhagen. We made a stop in a truck stop were Lisa bought us lunch. I had Swedish meatballs with potatoes and lingonberries. It reminded me of Ikea.
Today's ride was mostly through rolling farmlands. There were no significant hills. We saw lots of hay fields.
After crossing over the longest single-span bridge in Europe, we arrived at the Hotel Richmond in Copenhagen. By mistake, we were put into a smoking room on a smoking floor. The smell in the room wasn't too bad, but the hallway was awful. We have a commitment to move to a non-smoking room the next day.
Lisa led us on a short tour of our area of Copenhagen. We are centrally located being close to Tivoli Gardens, the train station, City Hall and Strøget, the longest pedestrian shopping area in Europe. On the way, we were intercepted by
Hans Christian Andersen who gave us a short history of his stories. Our tour's destination was a restaurant called Det lille Apotak - The Little Pharmacy. We ate in the entry room with its low ceiling. Being the end of a warm day, it was very warm in the restaurant. The food was good, though. Ann and I had salmon on a bed of cooked cabbage, boiled potatoes and mixed vegetables. We both had a glass of the house-brewed lager - a dark, crisp beer.
After dinner, we all walked back to the hotel together with an intermediate stop where Lisa treated us to ice cream. I had chocolate and banana; Ann had stracciatella and pistachio. We also stopped at the Tivoli Gardens where Ann and I walked around fascinated by the outdoor cafes, the amusement park rides (including a roller coaster with three 360 degree loops) and performance venues. It was really picturesque after dark with all of its colored lights. If we were younger and less tired, we could have stayed there all night. Instead, it was bed by 11:00.
View of Kalmar Castle and Oskar, the Guide
After the castle, we got onto the bus and began our day's journey to Copenhagen. We made a stop in a truck stop were Lisa bought us lunch. I had Swedish meatballs with potatoes and lingonberries. It reminded me of Ikea.
Today's ride was mostly through rolling farmlands. There were no significant hills. We saw lots of hay fields.
After crossing over the longest single-span bridge in Europe, we arrived at the Hotel Richmond in Copenhagen. By mistake, we were put into a smoking room on a smoking floor. The smell in the room wasn't too bad, but the hallway was awful. We have a commitment to move to a non-smoking room the next day.
Lisa led us on a short tour of our area of Copenhagen. We are centrally located being close to Tivoli Gardens, the train station, City Hall and Strøget, the longest pedestrian shopping area in Europe. On the way, we were intercepted by
Hans Christian Andersen who gave us a short history of his stories. Our tour's destination was a restaurant called Det lille Apotak - The Little Pharmacy. We ate in the entry room with its low ceiling. Being the end of a warm day, it was very warm in the restaurant. The food was good, though. Ann and I had salmon on a bed of cooked cabbage, boiled potatoes and mixed vegetables. We both had a glass of the house-brewed lager - a dark, crisp beer.
After dinner, we all walked back to the hotel together with an intermediate stop where Lisa treated us to ice cream. I had chocolate and banana; Ann had stracciatella and pistachio. We also stopped at the Tivoli Gardens where Ann and I walked around fascinated by the outdoor cafes, the amusement park rides (including a roller coaster with three 360 degree loops) and performance venues. It was really picturesque after dark with all of its colored lights. If we were younger and less tired, we could have stayed there all night. Instead, it was bed by 11:00.
Tuesday, August 7, 2007
Stockholm to Kalmar - August 7
Much to Ann's dismay, we got on our bus today. We left the hotel around 8:30 and drove to The City Hall. This is the gilt mosaic architectural jewel of Stockholm and site of the Nobel Prize banquet. We had an informative one-hour guided tour. We said good-bye to Stockholm and left on our 6-hour ride to Kalmar.
Our lunch stop was at the quaint town of Söderköping. The town is a tourist destination for people in cars, buses and boats. It is situated on a long canal that spans across the southern part of Sweden. We had a simple lunch while sitting at a canal-side cafe and watched people going along the canal walk. We also watched rabbits swimming across the canal.
We arrived in Kalmar at about 5:30. Dinner was at 7:00 in another cave-like restaurant. I had perch in a lobster sauce while Ann had duck in a citrus sauce. Both meals came with good potatoes. Our desert was chocolate pannacotta.
The weather continued to be warm and clear, although we awoke to a little mist.
Our lunch stop was at the quaint town of Söderköping. The town is a tourist destination for people in cars, buses and boats. It is situated on a long canal that spans across the southern part of Sweden. We had a simple lunch while sitting at a canal-side cafe and watched people going along the canal walk. We also watched rabbits swimming across the canal.
We arrived in Kalmar at about 5:30. Dinner was at 7:00 in another cave-like restaurant. I had perch in a lobster sauce while Ann had duck in a citrus sauce. Both meals came with good potatoes. Our desert was chocolate pannacotta.
The weather continued to be warm and clear, although we awoke to a little mist.
Monday, August 6, 2007
Third Day in Stockholm - August 6
Today was the first full day for our tour. After our good buffet breakfast (no Swedish pancakes on week days), we left the hotel and strolled down the street to the square. Lisa pointed out several sights including Östermalms Saluhall - the food market. We then went into the T-bana to get some experience riding the subway. We left from Östermalmstorg and got off at T-Centralen. Then we walked around the central part of the city and into the Gamla Stan. Along the walk, Lisa pointed out all of the points of interest including the Queens Garden that was paved over and the Nobel Museum where all prizes except the peace prize are awarded each year. We meandered through the narrow streets and wove our way to the ferry landing. Our ferry trip was to Djurgårdsvägen where we departed and walked to the Vasa Museum. Viewing the old war ship that was raised from the floor of the sea was really fascinating.
After the Vassa Museum, we used our Stockholm Card and caught a tram to take us back to the hotel area. The cards lets you into most city sites and allows unlimited use of public transportation. It's a real bargain if you want to visit a bunch of sites in one day.
We grabbed our dirty laundry at the hotel and went to the Östermalms Saluhall for lunch. This market is rated by Bon Appetite as one of the ten best in the world. It is like no market we have ever been in. It was extremely clean and neat with several vendors selling meats, fish, vegetables, cheese, coffee, etc.. It also had many kiosks for ordering lunch. Ann had a huge salad with quinoise, lox, vegetables, dried tomatoes, red peppers, etc. with balsamic vinegar dressing. I had a ham and cheese sandwich on a seeded roll. I also shared some of Ann’s salad.
The Food Market
After lunch we caught the T-bana and rode it to a Laundromat to wash our dirty clothes. While they were washing and drying, we wandered around the area a saw a different part of Stockholm. It wasn’t a busy as the areas we had been in before - probably because it wasn’t a tourist area.
Then it was back to the hotel, Happy Hour at 5:00 and buffet dinner at 6:30. The highlight of the evening was a visit to The Stockholm Ice Bar. Absolut has ice bars in a few Scandinavian cities. They are small rooms made out of ice. The bar, the benches and wall are all made out of ice. Drinks are served in large, hollowed out ice cubes. They are all vodka mixes in various colors with various mixes. We wore insulated parkas with hoods and winter gloves. Entertainment was recorded music by Abba. It was cold in there. The room could fit only about 20 people and we had a fixed time (45 minutes) that we could be in there. They told us to leave when it was time.
We walked and T-bana’ed back to the hotel. We took the Blue Line so that we could see some of its art work that Rick Steves wrote about. It was interesting but not too spectacular.
After the Vassa Museum, we used our Stockholm Card and caught a tram to take us back to the hotel area. The cards lets you into most city sites and allows unlimited use of public transportation. It's a real bargain if you want to visit a bunch of sites in one day.
We grabbed our dirty laundry at the hotel and went to the Östermalms Saluhall for lunch. This market is rated by Bon Appetite as one of the ten best in the world. It is like no market we have ever been in. It was extremely clean and neat with several vendors selling meats, fish, vegetables, cheese, coffee, etc.. It also had many kiosks for ordering lunch. Ann had a huge salad with quinoise, lox, vegetables, dried tomatoes, red peppers, etc. with balsamic vinegar dressing. I had a ham and cheese sandwich on a seeded roll. I also shared some of Ann’s salad.
The Food Market
After lunch we caught the T-bana and rode it to a Laundromat to wash our dirty clothes. While they were washing and drying, we wandered around the area a saw a different part of Stockholm. It wasn’t a busy as the areas we had been in before - probably because it wasn’t a tourist area.
Then it was back to the hotel, Happy Hour at 5:00 and buffet dinner at 6:30. The highlight of the evening was a visit to The Stockholm Ice Bar. Absolut has ice bars in a few Scandinavian cities. They are small rooms made out of ice. The bar, the benches and wall are all made out of ice. Drinks are served in large, hollowed out ice cubes. They are all vodka mixes in various colors with various mixes. We wore insulated parkas with hoods and winter gloves. Entertainment was recorded music by Abba. It was cold in there. The room could fit only about 20 people and we had a fixed time (45 minutes) that we could be in there. They told us to leave when it was time.
We walked and T-bana’ed back to the hotel. We took the Blue Line so that we could see some of its art work that Rick Steves wrote about. It was interesting but not too spectacular.
Second Day in Stockholm - August 5
We had a good night's sleep last night. We averted the dreaded second night jet lag problem by taking Tylenol PM. It works for sleep and for easing the aching walking muscles. Our breakfast was the hotel's buffet with more Swedish pancakes.
We walked over to the harbor and wandered around the area that we missed the day before. We dropped into the Grand Hotel to see where it served its renown smorgasbord. We decided that we would not be hungry enough at noon to have a $120 meal.
Next, we caught a 10:00 two-hour boat tour around Stockholm. We went through two locks and under 21 bridges. I didn’t realize that the city was built on so many islands. The narration told us a lot about past and current history of Stockholm. The weather was clear and warm which made the ride very pleasant.
Scene Along the Shore
After the boat tour, we walked to the old town, Gamla Stan, and ate at Grillska Huset , a cafeteria that is run by Stockholms Stadsmission, a charitable organization for the poor. I had a shrimp sandwich with a chocolate torte while Ann had a vegetarian sandwich with an apple torte.
Next, we walked over to The National Museum of Fine Arts. It has a good collection of Swedish art including a local artist, Carl Larsson. He focused on painting everyday scenes.
When we got back to the hotel, we had a 5:00 meeting with our Rick Steves tour group. Lisa, our guide, gave us a preview of the trip along with all of the policies and procedures of the tour. We had a few snacks and soft drinks and introduced ourselves.
After the meeting, our group took an orientation walk from our neighborhood over to Gamla Stan. Our group dinner was at Mårten Trotzig. We walked in the door and down two flights of stairs to the celler. Our pre-ordered dinner was ground veal patties, fresh peas and pureed potatoes. For desert, we had ice cream with strawberries and oatmeal wafers. It was a nice meal with pleasant company. We sat with Becky and Emile from Palmdale.
While walking back to the hotel, we realized that it was way after 9:00, the latest that we had been out on the trip. We collapsed into bed a little after 10:00.
We walked over to the harbor and wandered around the area that we missed the day before. We dropped into the Grand Hotel to see where it served its renown smorgasbord. We decided that we would not be hungry enough at noon to have a $120 meal.
Next, we caught a 10:00 two-hour boat tour around Stockholm. We went through two locks and under 21 bridges. I didn’t realize that the city was built on so many islands. The narration told us a lot about past and current history of Stockholm. The weather was clear and warm which made the ride very pleasant.
Scene Along the Shore
After the boat tour, we walked to the old town, Gamla Stan, and ate at Grillska Huset , a cafeteria that is run by Stockholms Stadsmission, a charitable organization for the poor. I had a shrimp sandwich with a chocolate torte while Ann had a vegetarian sandwich with an apple torte.
Next, we walked over to The National Museum of Fine Arts. It has a good collection of Swedish art including a local artist, Carl Larsson. He focused on painting everyday scenes.
When we got back to the hotel, we had a 5:00 meeting with our Rick Steves tour group. Lisa, our guide, gave us a preview of the trip along with all of the policies and procedures of the tour. We had a few snacks and soft drinks and introduced ourselves.
After the meeting, our group took an orientation walk from our neighborhood over to Gamla Stan. Our group dinner was at Mårten Trotzig. We walked in the door and down two flights of stairs to the celler. Our pre-ordered dinner was ground veal patties, fresh peas and pureed potatoes. For desert, we had ice cream with strawberries and oatmeal wafers. It was a nice meal with pleasant company. We sat with Becky and Emile from Palmdale.
While walking back to the hotel, we realized that it was way after 9:00, the latest that we had been out on the trip. We collapsed into bed a little after 10:00.
Saturday, August 4, 2007
First Day in Stockholm
We were up by 6:30 after getting plenty of sleep. That was a relief after our long day yesterday. The breakfast buffet was a surprise. Along with all of the standard fare, we had Swedish pancakes! And that's not all. Ann sampled the breakfast herring. She said that it was good. I wouldn't know. Herring for breakfast is too bazaar for me.
We left the hotel and walked along the harbor across the Djurgården bridge and onto Djurgårdsvägen. We wandered around a little until we found the west entrance to Skansen. This is Europe's first and best open-air folk museum. We visited farms that were relocated from various geographical area of Sweden. We also saw artisan workshops, churches and schools. We ate lunch in the main square and had smoked reindeer and a lingonberry drink. On the way out, we bought some pastries from the bakery. Because this was Saturday, there were lots a families there with their young kids.
Smoked Reinder
The Nordic Museum was very close to Skansen, so we decided to make a tour of it. The exhibits that we saw are listed on the museum's web site. Some of them were worth seeing, but I zoned out in the shoes and doilies sections. After we were done, we sat outside for a few minutes and polished off most of the pastries that we bought in Skansen.
While hiking back to the hotel, we stopped at a couple of grocery stores for bananas and beer. The bananas looked good but the beer was 3.2%. It seems that you can't buy strong beer in stores but you can drink it in bars. So we bought a couple of dark Swedish beers at the hotel bar and drank them in our room. The clerk at the hotel by law had to uncap them for us.
Dinner was at the hotel buffet again. We had salads and paella. We met Linda and Kay who are on the Rick Steves tour with us and chatted with them for awhile. Then we took a stroll to a subway station to see how the T-bana works. The transit system includes the subway, buses and boats.
Bed time was before 10:00.
We left the hotel and walked along the harbor across the Djurgården bridge and onto Djurgårdsvägen. We wandered around a little until we found the west entrance to Skansen. This is Europe's first and best open-air folk museum. We visited farms that were relocated from various geographical area of Sweden. We also saw artisan workshops, churches and schools. We ate lunch in the main square and had smoked reindeer and a lingonberry drink. On the way out, we bought some pastries from the bakery. Because this was Saturday, there were lots a families there with their young kids.
Smoked Reinder
The Nordic Museum was very close to Skansen, so we decided to make a tour of it. The exhibits that we saw are listed on the museum's web site. Some of them were worth seeing, but I zoned out in the shoes and doilies sections. After we were done, we sat outside for a few minutes and polished off most of the pastries that we bought in Skansen.
While hiking back to the hotel, we stopped at a couple of grocery stores for bananas and beer. The bananas looked good but the beer was 3.2%. It seems that you can't buy strong beer in stores but you can drink it in bars. So we bought a couple of dark Swedish beers at the hotel bar and drank them in our room. The clerk at the hotel by law had to uncap them for us.
Dinner was at the hotel buffet again. We had salads and paella. We met Linda and Kay who are on the Rick Steves tour with us and chatted with them for awhile. Then we took a stroll to a subway station to see how the T-bana works. The transit system includes the subway, buses and boats.
Bed time was before 10:00.
Friday, August 3, 2007
We Have Arrived in Stockholm
We were up at 3:00 this morning. At least I was up then. Ann decided that she needed to mentally review her packing and house preparation during the night so she was up and down a few times before 3:00. Both the alarm and clock radio went off on time, so we were assured that we would make our Bay Porter Express pickup at 4:00. We ate some fruit and muffins and powered down some strong Peet's coffee to get us going.
The 4:00 pickup was only 5 minutes late. We got to SFO a 1/2 hour later. We left at 6:50 on US Air to Philadelphia. We changed planes there for Stockholm. We tried napping a little. Ann was more successful then I, but I got to watch 3 movies and read a little of my book. We had to pay for food on the domestic leg. It was free on the international leg but we had to pay for wine. Quality was so-so.
We got to Stockholm around 8:00, went through immigration, got our bags, used the ATM and bought our senior tickets for the Arlanda express train to the Stockholm central train station. The train is very clean and efficient. It took us only 30 minutes to get to the station. Then it was into a taxi to the Hotel Wellington. Of course it was way too early to check into our room. Our plan was to leave our bags there and do some sightseeing. While putting away our bags, Ann discovered that she had left her purse on the train with her passport, credit cars and cash. The hotel clerk quickly called Arlanda and asked if anyone had turned it in. It turns our that Arlanda goes through the train after everyone disembarks looking for left items. It hadn't been turned in when she called, but they promised to call her back. About an hour later, they called and said that they had found it. So we taxied back to the station and picked up her purse with nothing missing. After that we decided to walk to the old town and do the sightseeing that we had originally planned.
Our main focus was to get some lunch and exercise. We had coffee and quiche in a small cafe in one of the alleys. Then we wandered uphill to the royal apartments. It was just before noon and there were hundreds of people milling around. We decided to hang out there to see what was going to happen. We found out it was time for the changing of the guards. The Swedes really do this well. First, two columns of troopers march into the courtyard and spread themselves along its parameter. Then a mounted trooper band appeared down the street and clopped into the courtyard playing their music. It was quite a spectacle.
We walked back to the hotel and were able to get into our room. It is a medium-sized room with a small balcony looking over a terrace one story below. The weather is a little too drippy and cool today to sit out there, but it is going to clear tomorrow. We both showered and cleaned up. We fought sleep for another few hours before we could eat dinner and go to bed.
We didn't last very long after dinner. Ann was asleep a little after 8:00. I followed soon after. I woke up once and looked at the clock. It said 9:00 and the sky was light. I thought that it was 9:00 AM so I almost got up. I thought about it though and realized that I couldn't have slept for 12+ hours without waing at least once. It stays light very late here.
The 4:00 pickup was only 5 minutes late. We got to SFO a 1/2 hour later. We left at 6:50 on US Air to Philadelphia. We changed planes there for Stockholm. We tried napping a little. Ann was more successful then I, but I got to watch 3 movies and read a little of my book. We had to pay for food on the domestic leg. It was free on the international leg but we had to pay for wine. Quality was so-so.
We got to Stockholm around 8:00, went through immigration, got our bags, used the ATM and bought our senior tickets for the Arlanda express train to the Stockholm central train station. The train is very clean and efficient. It took us only 30 minutes to get to the station. Then it was into a taxi to the Hotel Wellington. Of course it was way too early to check into our room. Our plan was to leave our bags there and do some sightseeing. While putting away our bags, Ann discovered that she had left her purse on the train with her passport, credit cars and cash. The hotel clerk quickly called Arlanda and asked if anyone had turned it in. It turns our that Arlanda goes through the train after everyone disembarks looking for left items. It hadn't been turned in when she called, but they promised to call her back. About an hour later, they called and said that they had found it. So we taxied back to the station and picked up her purse with nothing missing. After that we decided to walk to the old town and do the sightseeing that we had originally planned.
Our main focus was to get some lunch and exercise. We had coffee and quiche in a small cafe in one of the alleys. Then we wandered uphill to the royal apartments. It was just before noon and there were hundreds of people milling around. We decided to hang out there to see what was going to happen. We found out it was time for the changing of the guards. The Swedes really do this well. First, two columns of troopers march into the courtyard and spread themselves along its parameter. Then a mounted trooper band appeared down the street and clopped into the courtyard playing their music. It was quite a spectacle.
We walked back to the hotel and were able to get into our room. It is a medium-sized room with a small balcony looking over a terrace one story below. The weather is a little too drippy and cool today to sit out there, but it is going to clear tomorrow. We both showered and cleaned up. We fought sleep for another few hours before we could eat dinner and go to bed.
View of Our Room
A light buffet dinner was included in out room rate, so we ate in the dining area near the hotel's lobby. We had several kinds of salads, sausages, bread, cheese, etc. As we continue to take advantage of our "free" dinner, we will have to eat a large lunch or have snacks in mid-afternoon.We didn't last very long after dinner. Ann was asleep a little after 8:00. I followed soon after. I woke up once and looked at the clock. It said 9:00 and the sky was light. I thought that it was 9:00 AM so I almost got up. I thought about it though and realized that I couldn't have slept for 12+ hours without waing at least once. It stays light very late here.
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