20100531 – Riccione to Senigallia

We were up at 6:00 to start packing. Breakfast buffet was at 7:00. Same good food including scrambled eggs with very yellow yolks. I got my bags on the van while Ann loaded hers into the rental car. I left the hotel at 8:30 with Kathy, Hal, Julie and Don. Our route for the day was parallel to the coast.

After 9 km, we began a climb up a bluff. We had excellent views of the countryside and the coast. Near the top of the climb, we pulled off at a turnoff where there were several young Brits on a bicycle tour. We stopped, chatted and took photos. There were two tandems where the stokers were developmentally challenged. All the other riders were on single bikes. They left before we did, but we soon caught up to them and passed them in Fiorenzuola. This part of the ride was on a ridge were we had lots of rollers until we reached a good downhill into Pesaro. The weather was warming up but the wind was pretty strong at our back or our side.

At Pesaro, Julie and I decided to take today’s alternate route which was advertized as being non-scouted. It cut inland but still went parallel to the coast. We managed to take a wrong turn but got back on route in Fano. Our adventure included some very narrow country roads, some bad pavement that reminded me of some of the California roads and a couple of very steep climbs.

When we reached Fano, we stopped at a cafe where we had panini and chilled Nestle peach tea. As we were getting ready to leave, black clouds surrounded us. It began to rain heavily and the wind kicked up with strong gusts. We decided to wait it out at the cafe passing the time with strong coffee.

When the rain stopped, we started again and got back to the planned route. Luckily we had on our rain gear because it started to rain again, lightly this time. We bagged the planned route which went inland and forged ahead on the main highway. There was some traffic, but the shoulders were wide enough to ride safely. Julie got dirty wet because she was drafting behind me and caught the spray from my rear tire.

When we got to the outskirts of Senigallia, we caught up to Ron and Ellen. Julie lead us to the hotel. It was still stormy, but it had cleared enough for us to rinse all of the grime off of our bikes.

Here’s the link to today's ride.

At Happy Hour tonight, we re-introduced ourselves with our Italian names. Then we talked about our careers. Very interesting people in our group. Ann took notes so we can review them later.

Dinner was at 7:30. It included a salad bar, spaghetti with shell fish or vegetable soup, mixed grilled fish and sweets. Afterwards, Ann and I took a short walk along the sidewalk next to the beach looking at all of the private beaches with their cabanas, umbrellas, beach chairs, etc.

It’s now 9:30 and we are wrapping it up for the night.

20100530 – Riccione

Yesterday – May 29 – Riccione Country Loop

We were up at 6:00 and made it down to the breakfast buffet at 7:00. We had real food including fresh fruit and eggs – some protein to get us through the morning.

Our ride started at 8:30. I had to scurry around to find water bottles because I left mine at home. Because this is a bicycle hotel, I was able to get two of the hotel’s special bottles. After filling up with water, bananas and pinini piccolo, we were off.

The hotel supplies a cycling guide. Paolo led us out of town and 10 km into the hills. This meant that everyone had to ride as a group, very slow with lots of stops – a very frustrating experience for the faster riders.

We finally broke into groups. I took the longer option led by Tom Leever. There were 7 of us and we went a lot faster. As we began a gradual climb into the hills, we passed cherry trees, fig trees and fields of corn that were beginning to sprout. There also were red poppies blooming in the fields. At one point, I stood up on a steep section and my rear cog skipped slightly. This was enough to cause my rear fender to move and clamp down on my rear wheel. Needless to say, it was a lot harder to pedal. So we stopped at a piazza in Morciano where I removed the fender and hid it in the branches of a small tree hoping that it would be there when I drove back later to fetch it.

The rest of the ride was uneventful except looking at the scenery from the ridge tops. It was warm and humid with threatening skies. I heard thunder once.

Tom and I stopped for a snack in Mercantino and then rode on to the hotel. I was a little faster on the hills than Tom, so I got ahead of him. This gave me the opportunity to get slightly lost coming into Riccione on the way to the hotel. Because the hotel is on the beach, all I had to do was ride toward the water and turn south to the hotel. I forged a new route.

Here is a link to today's route.

Back at the hotel, I took off my front fender which was loose and rubbing on the tire. I went up to the main floor where there was a buffet for cyclists – fruit, yogurt, cheese, pasta and some sweets. (All meals are included in our room rate).

After showering, Ann and I walked through Riccione along the street of shops. We ended up at an outdoor mall where there were lots of upscale shops and restaurants. Hundreds of people were there beginning their Saturday night stroll.

When we got back to the hotel, they were serving light appetizers and prosecco. Then we went to dinner. The antipasti bar was again filled with lots of tempting selections. We both used caution and didn’t take as much as the night before. We wanted to enjoy the rest of our meal. I had a first course of ravioli while Ann had consommé. We both wanted pigeon for our main course, but there was none left. We settled on veal stew. The first and second courses have small portions so we don’t overstuff ourselves.

Dinner starts at 7:30 and lasts for two hours. That’s why it is hard to write this blog at the end of a very long day.

Today – May 30 – Riccione Loop to San Marino

We had the breakfast buffet again this morning. Our ride start was at 8:30. Today’s loop was to the independent republic state of San Marino. Paolo met our group outside of the hotel and led us through the city. At the traffic circle near the yellow posts, we paused so that we could break the group by pace. Paolo led the faster group while the slower folks were on their own.

The first part of the ride retraced the end of yesterday’s route. Serious climbing began soon. Most of the grades were moderate but we had some that kicked up to 10% or more. I used my lowest gear in a few places.

At the top of the climb, we reached San Marino. This is an independent republic surrounded by Italy. It’s been that way for several centuries after defending itself from various foes including the Vatican. San Marino is the oldest recorded sovereign state and constitutional republic in the world, having been founded on 3 September 301 by stonecutter Marinus of Rab. I locked my bicycle to a post and climbed up to San Marino’s highest point – a castle-like structure on the edge of a cliff. There was a long drop down. It made me dizzy.

I worked my way down to my bicycle passing many tourist shops and cafes. There were lots of visitors there. I stopped in a small cafe to get a refill of one of my water bottles. The lady that filled it was very nice and friendly. I also met three of my co-riders who were having cappuccino at a bar.

I left San Marino and began a rapid descent. I thought that I was following all of the cue sheet instructions, but I was going so fast, I missed one. I had to turn around and go back straight up the steep hill for a couple of kms. Back on route, I continued back to the hotel stopping once for a snack.

I showered, put on my shorts (it’s warm) and dropped my cycling clothes into the laundry bin. Our room rate includes washing our cycling clothes. We turn them in by 5:00 and they are hanging on our door before we go to bed. After that, I had a cyclist’s lunch. Ann showed up as I was eating. She and Carol drove up to San Marino. No beach time today, but she did take a swim in the hotel’s pool.

Here is a link to today's route.

So, after several glasses of vino rosso, I will finish today’s blog. (Did you know that Italian wines are missing the chemicals that USA wines have that give you headaches)?

We had a Happy Hour at 6:00. Tonight’s agenda was getting an Italian name from Julie and talking about our immediate family. We also had a route wrap about tomorrow’s ride.

Dinner at 7:30 had the usual antipasti bar. For our first course, I had pasta with clams. Ann had cannelloni. Our main course was guinea hen. Dolce was a buffet of sweets and crepes.

It’s now 9:40 and we are getting ready for bed. Tomorrow we will be in a new hotel.

20100529 – Riccinone

It’s 10:00. I’m too tired to blog. I did a good ride today. Ann played on the beach and in town. We had a good dinner, but our dinners are lasting too late.

20100528 – Venice to Riccione

This is another abbreviated blog because of lack of time.

We check out of our hotel in Venice, took the vaporatto to Piazza Roma and picked up our rental car. Jack (our friendly GPS) led us an a 4 hour drive to Riccione with one stop near Bologna for lunch at an Autogrille. It wasn’t bad.

We got to Riccione around 2:00 and settled into out room. Ann went swimming in the hotel’s pool while I put my bicycle together. Our group meeting was at 5:30. We got an overview of our tour and everyone gave a self-introduction.

Dinner at 7:30 was wonderful. We started out with an antipasto assortment from a salad-like bar. There was selections of food I have never seen before – and there was a lot of it. Then we had a pasta choice – Ann had risotto while I had pasta with flat lobster (whatever that was). Then we had a main course. Ann skipped it while I had grilled monkfish. Dessert was fresh strawberries. Of course there was a lot of wine.

We got back to our room at 9:30. It’s time for bed. Cycling starts tomorrow.

20100527 – Venice

Another good day in Venice. We saw some new things and reviewed some old things. Here is another summary.

Walked to Piazza San Marco. (Old)

Continued on Rick Steves walking tour to the church of San Zaccaia. Toured the church. (New)

Took the vaporetto to San Giorgio Maggiore. Toured the church and went up the bell tower. (New)

Took the vaporetto back to Piazza San Marco and looked in at the Correr Museum. Decided to skip it.

Had panini at an outdoor cafe in Compo San Stefano. (New)

Walked slowly back to our hotel.

Bought a cell phone that works. We now have two that we will use on the rest of the trip. Got caught in a brief rain shower on the way.

Had dinner at La Bitta – a repeat from a previous trip. Ann had a lamb shank. I had veal. We split a panna cotta. (Old)

20100526 – Venice

I’m too tired to do an extended blog tonight. Here’s a highlight of what we did today. Photos and a complete write-up will be on out website after we get back.

Got up after 10 hours of sleep.

Rode the vaporetto to Piazza San Marco.

Took Rick Steves audio tour of the Basilica and the piazza.

Had a sandwich in a shop behind the basilica.

Took Rick Steves walking tour from Piazza San Marco to the Rialto Bridge.

Rested.

Walked to and toured the Frari Church.

Showered and changed clothes.

Watched a baroque concert by a German choral group at a Lutheran church on the other side of the bridge.

Ate dinner at Trattoria da Bepi. I had a mixed salad and spaghetti with shell fish. Ann had tomatoes with mozzarella cheese and sardines with a onion and vinegar sauce.

It’s 9:30 and we are fading.

20100525 – Venice and Burano

We got lots of sleep last night. We need it after being up for 32 hours. Break fast at our hotel was at 7:30. We had juice, muesli, yogurt, filled croissants and coffee.

We left the hotel, caught the vaporetto and cruised down the Grand Canal to Piazza San Marco. Our destination was Burano.  This meant that we had to catch a different boat to get there. We just missed the 8:30 departure, so we killed time by walking around the neighborhood northeast of the piazza.

We caught the 10:30 vaporetto and sailed for Burano. We got there about an hour later after making stops in Lido, S Niccolo and one other. The weather was sunny and warm so we were in shirt sleeves.

Burano is known mostly for its lace, its colorful houses and its leaning church tower. It also has lots of eating places but not too many tourists.

We wandered through the town looking at the houses and lace shops. We went into the church and saw a restored painting by Tiepolo of the crucifixion. When we got hungry, we ate lunch at Restorante al Veccio Pipa. We had an enormous amount of good food ordering three plates which we shared. Our first course was pr0ciutto  with avocados. Then we had spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce and frito misto – a huge pile of lightly fried seafood. Everything was very good, but it was too much to finish.

After lunch we walked back to the vaporetto stop and took the boat to the Fondamente Nova stop in Venice. We walked across that neighborhood, caught another vaporetto at Ca’ D’Oro, got off at Rialto Mercato and walked to our hotel where we took a rest.

Before we went to dinner, we had to get out and take a walk to keep from falling asleep. Our destination was a pizza restaurant that was recommended by Rick Steves. His directions to the restaurant were hard to follow so I got out my GPS and it guided us right to it. When we got there, it wasn’t open yet so we wandered around in our jet-lag daze.

At 7:00 we were seated in the outside terrace of Osteria Trattoria Al Nono Risorto. We both ordered a pizza – Ann’s was vegetarian and mine was sausage with gorgonzola cheese. I also had a beer ala spina. The pizzas were good but a little too large to finish.

When we walked back to the hotel, we walked to its other side into Campo Cesare Battisti Gia Della Bella Vienna. We wanted to see where the crowd noise was coming from that Ann heard last night. We discovered that this is a hot-spot for the young crowd for Venice’s version of a pub crawl. There are several small Cicchetti bars that sell wines and toothpick munchies. People socialize at the bars until late at night. We recognized a couple of bars that we went to with the Bensons a few years ago.

It’s now closing in on 9:00. We are going to bed for a long sleep to try to shed our jet lag.

20100524 – Home to Venice

We made it to Venice after a very long flight to Frankfurt and a short hop to Venice. When we go to Venice, we bought three-day transportation passes and used them for the bus from the airport to Piazza Roma and from there on the water bus to Rialto Mercato. We are in our room at Pensione Guerrato on the fourth floor (no elevator). I tested our cell phones. The one Ellen loaned us works. My old one doesn’t. I’ll buy a cheap one in the next few days. We had dinner at a deli-type cafe.

It’s now a little after 7:00 PM and we are fading fast. We’ve been awake forever.