Today was the "Big Climb Day", up and over Grossglockner Pass. The ride's start was 80 km from our hotel, so we were to be shuttled to it with our bikes via bus and trailer as soon as the bus was loaded. This was so that we could miss some of the traffic up the hill. The target was 6:00 to start loading. We got up a little after 5:00 to get packed. When we got to the loading area, we found out that the bus had mechanical problems and would be late. So it was off to breakfast. The alternate bus finally arrived and we left the hotel after 7:00.
We arrived at our start at the toll booth at Ferleiten at 9:00. There are toll booths at both ends of the pass and they charge 27 Euros per car. The expense doesn't seem to bother people because there were hundreds of cars, busses and motorcycles going through. Bicycles were free.
The weather was cool and sunny at the start. This didn't last long, because we immediately started to climb the 12% grade and our internally generated heat warmed us up. I shed my thin jacket first, then my leg warmers and finally my arm warmers as I ascended.
This was an amazing climb. The first summit, Fuschertorl Pass, was at 8 miles and the final summit, Hochtor Pass, was at 12 miles. The grade was at 12 - 13% with relief at each of the 17 numbered switchbacks. There was one section at about 9% that felt like it was level. We started at around 4000 feet. The first summit was a little over 8000 feet and the second summit was a little higher. My Bike Friday gearing was much too high so I had to make several stops along the way to catch my breath. My average speed was only 3.9 MPH. Jeff was a lot stronger and had to wait for me at several points. That was good because he took many photos of the gorgeous scenery as he was waiting. Norbert and the van were stopped at the side of the road near the first summit offering us bananas, water, chocolate, etc. along with encouragement. I almost put my bike in the van for a ride to the top, but it was already full with other riders. So I cycled on and am glad I did.
Me Struggling up the 13% Grade and a Shot of One of the Switchbacks
There were an amazing number of cyclists on the climb. They ranged from racer-types to tourists like us as well as people on mountain bikes. I saw lots of middle-aged cyclists dressed in their club jerseys. There were also lots of busses, cars and motorcycles polluting our air with exhaust fumes.
It took us around 3 hours to reach the first summit. We then dropped down about 500 feet to Fuscher Lacke where we had lunch. Paul from Las Gatos was riding with us from here on to the finish. Our lunch was grilled wurst with French fries and a salad.
Our Lunch Restaurant with its Whistling Marmot
When we got outside, the wind was howling. This made the ascent to the second summit much more challenging, especially when the wind was in our face. We negotiated the first short tunnel and continued on through the second tunnel and the summit. We stopped here to take several photos to prove that we made it. Norbert was parked here in the van.
Jeff, Me and Paul at the Summit
We now had a screaming decent of 24 km. I was warned that the rims on my Bike Friday had a tendency to heat up and blow out my tires if I used my breaks too much. I was worried about this so I let it fly, passing several cars along the way. I stopped a couple of times to let Jeff and Paul catch up to make sure we didn't make any wrong turns. The road leveled off approaching Dollach-Grosskirchheim where we took the R8 bike path. This was an option if we didn't want to ride on the main road. It was a relief to leave the busses, cars and motorcycles behind.
Orchids along the Bike Path and a View of the Bike Path
The asphalt bike lane turned into a packed dirt bike lane, but it was easy to ride on. We stayed on it a little too long because when we got to Winklern, our route sheet was not specific on where to go to get back on the main route. We made a wrong turn and didn't realize it until we had ridden 3km down the wrong road. Turning back, we got to Winklern, stopped at a market for fluids and got back on route. Our last climb of the day - 3.5km at 7% - started here. Norbert was waiting at the halfway point offering us refreshments. The chocolate bars were really good.
Me, Norbert and Ricardo Halfway up the Hill
We made it to the top. The rest of the way was downhill and level. After the downhill, we rode on bicycle paths all the way to the hotel. The path was picturesque. It went through corn and sunflower fields and along a river.
The Bike Path and Our Hotel
Altstadthotel Eck is a small family-run hotel right on the main square of Lienz. We were the last to get there at 6:00 and there was nobody at the reception desk. We saw which room we were assigned to on a list, so I grabbed our room key and carried our luggage to it. It's a nice hotel with clean, comfortable rooms.
We quickly showered and joined the rest of our group at the hotel's outdoor restaurant. The weather was still warm and I was comfortable in shorts and a shirt. Jeff and I decided that we wanted to eat local Tirol specialities. We had a clear soup that had dumplings with herbs in them. We also had a salad and gnocchi with a spinach and cheese stuffing. Both were very tasty. So was the beer. The restaurant was right on the square. Being Friday night, there were lots of people strolling around. In the middle of the square, there was a band and dancers performing Austrian dances. It was a very colorful, pleasant evening.
Bedtime was at 10:00.
Daily Stats
| Mileage | 53 |
| Maximum Speed | 43.3 |
| Average | 3.9 up and 9.2 overall |
| Moving Time | 05:44 |
| Elevation Gain | 6848 |
| Weather | Sunny 50's - 80's |
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